Obviously I have gone soft. Really, I don’t ask for much! I booked my ticket from Sucre (why ever did I leave!) to Santa Cruz (I which I’d brought a guide book!). It would have been nice if our ***** (that’s 5 stars) bus had a toilet in it!
Because I booked my ticket late, I ended up at the rear of the bus. Which was a blessing in disguise, as I’ll explain. I got on, having paid my departure tax (for a bus!!!), and dragged my luggage (strangely enough I thought it’d be easier to have wheels then a backpack) all the way up to the office again, so they could put tiny little tags on them, so they could throw them down a plank to where I started. I’m not impressed by how the Bolivian bus companies organise themselves. In Argentina 5 stars meant, food served, on-board toilets, modern films, and sometimes blankets and pillows!
Anyway it was a 14 hour ride along bumpy dirt roads. I ended up with a small indigenous woman sprawling out in the adjoining seat. I didn’t mind at least she kept me warm. Incidentally, I was that warm I took off my jumper (or sweater in American English), whereas IW was wearing at least 15 layers then pulled out a big blanket when she went to sleep. After about half an hour they put on THE film. At the back of the bus you can’t see or hear much. I was quite disappointed as I’ve seen some good films on other trips. However, when it started it was a very dodgy video copy (it kept on losing tracking) of two Mexican bad guys, with the typical big hats trying not to look gay - in a 1950s kind of way. It was supposed to be some sort of action film, but the acting was abysmal so I quickly lost interest. Later my attention was snatched back when the lead bad guy broke in to song. “Yes, it can get even worse!”, I thought to myself.
Three hours later in to the trip the bus stops and everyone piles of to have dinner. And some of us guys wander over the side of the road to relieve ourselves - these places don’t offer Baños. Presumably, the woman just hold on, and on…
We arrive and the next trick is to find somewhere to stay. I picked up something from the International Hostal Bolivia in Sucre. I loved that Hostel, so I thought I’d try out some of the other places they recommend. I was most disappointed to find what the IHB recommends in Santa Cruz. Very expensive - by local standards - and very cramped. Well, one night’s okay, I suppose.
First impressions of Santa Cruz are also disappointing. It’s certainly hot, but mainly because of the high humidity. It feels and looks like a big soulless city. And if you go by omens, falling over in the street and twisting your ankle is kind of saying this city is not for you. So, I’ve already bought my ticket out of here, leaving to Valle Grande tomorrow afternoon. If by some amazing feat I manage to fall in love with the city between now and then I’m might come back this way (PLACE YOUR BETS HERE!), otherwise when I’m done with the Che tour, I’m off to Cochabamba. God I hope it’s nicer than this dump! Sorry, I was supposed to be giving this place a chance *blushes*
